London Fashion Week: Some Designers Show More Sizes, But Ultra-Thin Models Still Common

London Fashion Week shows a split: some designers feature models of all sizes, but many still prefer very thin models. This is a change from last year.
By Newsroom | Fashion, London |

London Fashion Week has presented a mixed picture regarding body diversity, with some designers actively showcasing a broader range of sizes while concerns persist about a broader industry trend toward ultra-thin models. This has sparked discussions about inclusivity and the pressures placed on designers and models.

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Shifting Landscapes in Fashion Presentation

Recent London Fashion Week events highlight a contrast between designers championing size diversity and an industry-wide inclination towards slimmer figures. This divergence raises questions about the long-term commitment to inclusive practices within the fashion world.

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  • Designers pushing for inclusivity: Designer Karoline Vitto is noted for presenting collections with models of varying sizes, from XS to fuller figures, all wearing the same fluid designs. Her work has been described as responsive rather than escapist, aiming to reflect a wider audience.

  • Industry challenges: Conversely, reports suggest a decrease in plus-size models on global catwalks. Designers like Sinéad O'Dwyer point to practical and financial reasons for this, such as the ease of designing for a single, flatter shape and the time constraints that hinder sampling across different sizes.

Evidence of Size Diversity

Specific instances at London Fashion Week indicate a move towards greater size representation.

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  • Karoline Vitto's collections: Karoline Vitto stands out as a designer who consistently features mid-size and plus-size looks. In one season, her runway showcased 100% mid or plus-size models, with a significant portion being mid-size.

  • Broader initiatives: While not exclusive to London, efforts have been made to incorporate diversity into runway shows. Some designers prioritize diversity and inclusive strategies to enhance brand appeal, with brands like Burberry mentioned as embracing runway diversity techniques.

The Pervasive Influence of Ultra-Thin Ideals

Despite advances in inclusivity, a significant trend towards ultra-thin models remains a concern, impacting body image and reinforcing specific beauty standards.

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  • Complaints and scrutiny: In the UK, there has been a rise in complaints regarding the thinness of models. While regulatory bodies like the ASA have not always found models to be unhealthy, the context of their rulings is important. For example, advertisements by Zara that were banned were not deemed unhealthy by the ASA, but the perceived thinness of the models was attributed to shadows, poses, and styling rather than the models' actual physique.

  • Industry rationale: Designers and brands sometimes cite practical reasons for adhering to slimmer models. Sinéad O'Dwyer notes that it is "easier to design for one shape and size of person each season and always a person that has more of a flat shape so that it is not necessary to think about the architecture of the garment as much." She also mentions that the rapid pace of fashion for profit makes it "easier to keep people small than to create more sizes."

  • Reinforcing standards: This return to ultra-thin ideals is seen as undermining progress in body positivity and reinforcing unhealthy beauty standards that can contribute to body shaming and self-esteem issues, particularly among young women. Luxury brands are specifically called out as being slow to embrace body diversity.

The Economics of Inclusivity

The financial and logistical aspects of fashion design play a crucial role in the extent of body diversity seen on the runway.

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  • Profit motive: The need for brands to move quickly for profit can lead to prioritizing simpler design processes. Sinéad O'Dwyer states, "The need to move so quickly for profit doesn't leave time to sample across different shapes — it’s easier to keep people small than to create more sizes."

  • Cost of diverse sampling: Creating garments in multiple sizes for sampling and runway presentation can be more time-consuming and costly, which may deter brands focused on rapid production and sales.

Looking Ahead: The Future of Inclusivity in Fashion

The conversation around inclusivity in fashion is ongoing, extending beyond just size to encompass a more holistic approach.

  • Beyond surface-level representation: Experts suggest that true inclusivity requires more than just seeing diverse models on the runway. The focus needs to be on who fashion ultimately works for and how it impacts broader societal relationships with body image.

  • Learning from London: London Fashion Week has been highlighted as a potential model for other cities in terms of exploring and implementing inclusivity, with designers prioritizing diverse models and strategies to connect with a wider audience.

Conclusion

London Fashion Week has presented a dichotomy: while designers like Karoline Vitto are making significant strides in showcasing body diversity with fuller-figured models, the wider industry appears to be grappling with a return to ultra-thin ideals. This trend, influenced by economic pressures and design practicalities, risks undoing years of progress in body positivity. The challenge remains for the fashion industry to move beyond tokenistic gestures and embrace genuine, widespread inclusivity that reflects the diversity of its audience and promotes healthier body image for future generations.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the main difference in body representation at London Fashion Week?
London Fashion Week shows two main trends. Some designers, like Karoline Vitto, show clothes on models of many different sizes. However, many other designers are still using very thin models.
Q: Why do some designers use very thin models at London Fashion Week?
Some designers find it easier and faster to design for one body shape, usually a thin one. The fashion industry moves very quickly to make money, so creating clothes in many sizes takes too much time and costs more.
Q: Are there complaints about the thinness of models in the UK?
Yes, there are more complaints in the UK about how thin models are. Sometimes ads are banned, but not always because the models are unhealthy. It can be about shadows, poses, or how the clothes are styled.
Q: What is the effect of using only very thin models?
Using only very thin models can make people feel bad about their own bodies. It puts pressure on people to look a certain way and can harm self-esteem, especially for young women.
Q: What does the future look like for body diversity in fashion?
The fashion world is talking more about including everyone. London Fashion Week is seen as a place where designers can try new ideas for showing diversity. The goal is to make fashion work for all people, not just a few.